A knotted ribbon pendant

Yellow gold, rubies and enamels
Hungary, last third of the XVIIth century
Signed by Johann Sussmilch junior
D : 8,5 x 6 cm

Literature:

Investing in antique jewelry, New York, 1968, p. 79. Hungarian museum of art, 1931, n° 329.

Provenance

Baron Herzog M. Lipot’s old collection

Description

The pendant, in the shape of a double knot, is decorated with black, white, light blue and pink enamel, enhanced with table cut rubies. The back, entirely enamelled, has floral decorations close to the models by Heinrich Raab (active ca 1660-1690). In the middle is the signature of the goldsmith and enameller, probably Johann Sussmilch junior. Active until 1688, he made enamelled buckles called Heftel, some of which are in the National Museum of Decorative Arts in Budapest.
This jewel is inspired by the French court where knots, made for example on the graphic models of Gilles Legaré (1617-1663) and François Lefèbvre (1631-1676), were highly appreciated at the end of the 17th century.
 

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A knotted ribbon pendant